The colorful people of India

A million kites to welcome me

Re-entry into India proved to be a bit like the astronauts re-entering the Earths atmosphere: you either survive or are burned alive. I must admit, even I, the adventurous Miss Anastasia, was a bit … well… disheartened to come back to a place that can be so hard.

My saving grace was that two great friends welcomed me back with hugs, presents, and a strong desire to find western food. They each deserve a mention (long before now). Jean-Pierre, my Belgian colleague and partner in crime… he is a person full of great one-liners about “this garbage country.” (A joke! Really!) And Miss Jody, the Diva of Delhi, a Bostonian who I am eternally indebted to, having taken care of me in my hour of need. India is sure a place to “bond.” And NO nothing ‘funny’ is going on with either one so don’t even ask!!! (I know how you people think.)

Although I’d love to take full credit, they had actually arrived in Ahmedabad for the International Kite Festival. Yes, it was a full-on public holiday and everyone had off-- to literally go fly a kite. Thousands upon thousands of kites in the sky…. Littering power lines and trees with swatches of color… spools of thread being dyed florescent pink in the street...giving cause for children and adults to cheer.

And even in my grumpy state, I couldn’t help but be moved by the spectacle. We decided to wonder the streets of old Ahmedabad, a muslim part of the city that looks like a (run-down) version of the romantic India you imagine. Normally it is filled with too many people to even move, but this day it was eerily calm. We snaked through several back alleys, every person we met saying “hello” and “are you fine?” perhaps a bit concerned that we had ended up in their neighborhood by mistake. Then, one older gentleman smiled broadly and asked,

“Would YOU like to fly a kite?”

Damn right I would! We took him up on his offer-- he barked a command and then about 20 heads popped over the side of roof three stories above us. “Hello! Hello!” they excitedly called and soon we were being led by the hand through the house, past empty concrete rooms, to the rooftop – where music blared and spirits were high. I looked across the sunset-streaked horizon to witness a huge, huge party. Every rooftop packed with people, yelling, cheering, and a million trillion billion kites in every direction. Within moment our new friends were each jostling for the chance to show us how to maneuver the kites and making certain that we each had a good try at it, before one boy said “I will get you a kite” and dashed off to emerge with a yellow one – just for me. And (with the directions shouted to me by nearly all there) I managed to dodge the other kites, getting higher and higher, as they cheered me on. Alas… eventually my line was cut by an opposing kite and it was over-- just in time for the evening call to prayer sung from the minaret. The music was dutifully stopped but certainly no one there was willing to face east and lose the battle of his kite.

I suppose, India is an amazing place after all. Its good to be back.